LUCCA: 3 UNMISSABLE SYMBOLS TO DISCOVER WHILE STROLLING THROUGH THE HISTORIC CENTER
di Sara Giorgi
Lucca, with its medieval charm and thousand-year-old history, is a jewel of Tuscany that invites visitors to explore every corner of its historic center. A guided tour along its lush walls and through the city streets is not only a journey through time but also an immersion into an exciting blend of history and legends. As you enter the center, the narrow streets and characteristic squares will lead you to some of Lucca’s most iconic gems.
Among the city’s access gates, my favorite is undoubtedly Porta S. Maria, which retains many details tied to Lucca’s history. For this reason, I often organize guided tours starting from this point. I will pause here for a moment to tell you about its vigilant guardians.
On the facade of Porta S. Maria, you will be greeted by two large panthers holding the two-toned emblem of Lucca between their paws. The panther, an elegant, cunning, independent, and proud animal, has been the emblem of the city of Lucca since the 14th century, perfectly reflecting the personality of the Lucchesi, who were skilled merchants of precious silk fabrics and diplomats capable of ensuring the city’s wealth and autonomy, allowing Lucca to proudly remain a republic for many centuries.
In ancient times, it was widely believed that the panther emitted a particularly pleasant scent that attracted all other animals to it. The panther appears in various locations throughout the Lucca area and in local artworks: in the historic center, you will find one high up, protruding from the side of a building if you look up in the picturesque “Chiasso Barletti” alley. Meanwhile, at the National Museum of Villa Guinigi, one of the most famous depictions, “The Lucchese Panther,” is preserved—an ancient sculpture portraying a feline clawing at a man. If you choose to take a guided tour of this museum, you will also learn all the details about Paolo Guidotti’s 1611 painting, “Allegory of Lucchese Freedom,” in which a black panther stands beside the personification of Liberty, depicted as a maiden dressed in white, seated on a throne.
Once inside the city, continuing along Via Fillungo, you will find magnificent shops, sometimes topped with elegant signs bearing the names of the ancient businesses they once housed. As you reach the intersection of Via Fillungo and Via S. Andrea, turning left onto this street will lead you to the famous Guinigi Tower—an essential stop on any guided tour of Lucca, easily recognizable by the oak trees growing atop it.
The Guinigi Tower, with its seven small trees, can be found depicted all over Lucca—not only in paintings and souvenirs of all kinds but also in perfumes, pendants, and jewelry, even on bottles of Biadina, a typical liqueur produced in Lucca since the 19th century, traditionally enjoyed with a handful of pine nuts in the glass.
A legend tells that when the Republic of Lucca set a height limit for towers that powerful families could build, the Guinigi family devised a clever way to bypass the restriction. They constructed their tower up to the maximum allowed height, then planted trees on top to make it stand out above all the others. But why were oak trees chosen? Being evergreen, they symbolized longevity and prosperity for the powerful Guinigi family. However, as always, many legends and theories surround this choice. The tower is open to visitors, and from its summit, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Lucca’s most beautiful squares.
Continuing along Via S. Andrea and turning right onto Via Guinigi, you will emerge onto Via S. Croce. The name of this street hints at the last symbol of Lucca I want to share with you: “The Holy Cross,” also known as “The Holy Face.” There is a beautiful palace along this street that features a depiction of it on its main facade—Palazzo Mazzarosa. Built in the 16th century and acquired in 1597 by Alessandro Mazzarosa, who modified it into an elegant residence, the building still bears the name of this historic family.
The choice to place the image of the Holy Face on the facade, alongside the family’s coat of arms, was not unusual in Lucca. The Holy Face has been considered the protector of the city for centuries, and its image was often placed not only on building facades but also along streets in small devotional shrines and roadside niches. One such example is still visible in Via Borgo Giannotti, just outside the historic center.
This ancient crucifix, housed in the cathedral of San Martino, is the quintessential symbol of Lucca. Venerated since the 10th century, it has been a pilgrimage destination for the faithful. It was even regarded as the “King of the City of Lucca,” prompting the Lucchesi to offer it the keys to the city gates, as well as a crown, scepter, and exquisite jewelry made of gold, silver, and precious stones. Each year, on September 14th, these adornments are placed on the statue during the Feast of the Holy Cross.
Currently, the crucifix is undergoing extensive study and meticulous restoration, revealing numerous discoveries. To learn more—not only about this mysterious and legendary relic but also about many other fascinating aspects of Lucca—I highly recommend joining one of our guided tours. With a professional tour guide from Lucca Info & Guide, you’ll uncover intriguing details and places rich in history and charm.